Amanda Medrado presents a lecture on the future of fashion
The biggest innovation and sustainability festival in Latin America, Winds For Future, took place from the 22nd to the 25th of September in Cumbuco, Ceará.
Supported by ApexBrasil, the event took place in front of Cumbuco beach and featured lectures, workshops and startups that develop work on topics such as renewable energy, mobility, sustainable development, future of food, ocean culture, among others.
In the fashion theme panel, Amanda Medrado, creative director of AM Brazil, spoke about “Fashion of the future is social”.
Associate of Abest, AM Brazil by Amanda Medrado is a project born in the countryside of Ceará: handcrafted accessories made 100% by hand by women from small towns in Ceará, using natural and sustainable resources as raw materials.
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Collection of Dotz and Marcella Club by Gianni Chiarini released in Italy
The design collaboration between the Brazilian brand DOTZ and Marcella Club, a line from the Italian brand Gianni Chiarini, was announced on September 6 through the brands’ Instagram.
The limited edition is made with sustainable materials and has 8 exclusive items, 4 models of bags and 4 models of shoes. With vivid designs, Dotz loafers are made from jacquard fabric made from cotton and recycled PET. See the full collection here!
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The freshness of Brazilian fashion draws attention abroad
Taking into account the numerous types of raw materials, layouts and finishes, the design of Brazil is more explored and recognized outside the country than inside.
One of the brands that reverberates more and more internationally is Nannacay, founded by creative director Marcia Kemp. Linked to the Child Statute as a volunteer for more than 10 years, something echoed inside her saying that she would leave her legacy in the world.
Always captivated by culture and diversity, it was on a trip to Africa that she had the insight that she would work with crafts. Her main mission is to transform people’s lives with creativity. More than just fashion, it’s a new social fashion project: Creative Hands Transforming Lives.
Bringing job opportunities to dozens of women, the brand name is of Quechua Aimara origin, which means sisterhood of women.
With only 8 years on the market, Nannacay’s pioneering spirit was evident when it was one of the first brands to diversify materials, launching pieces in crochet and straw. Sustainability and empowerment are the main pillars of the brand.
And despite the short time of existence, Nannacay already shares selections of pieces with great and consecrated brands; this is the case in the article from Harper’s Bazaar by Laura Jane Brown about handmade bags that bring the freshness of summer and the desire to travel. Names such as Prada, Valentino and Saint Laurent are present on the list. Organically, the only Brazilian piece is the Felipa bag by Nannacay.
Nannacay was also the focus of London’s Good Newsletter, in the article “Good Qs with Marcia Kemp, Nannacay”, which brings together 10 questions about Marcia’s life and brand.
Nannacay is also present on the world’s leading platform in the online luxury fashion market, FARFETCH, with 98 handbag models. Among them, 2 exclusive models launched by Nannacay + FARFETCH, from the We Galactics collection.
Since 2016, @Lapimaofficial combines luxury and attitude with hand-carved Italian acetate glasses. The result is refined shapes that play with texture, volume, light and shadow.
Present in more than 10 countries, one of the stores that have the gorgeous eyewear from Lapima is @Bergdorfs, a stylish store in NY that has 8 floors and has been the setting for several movies and TV series.
The launch of the new Lapima collection will take place this weekend, September 10th and 11th, at Bergdorf Goodman 📍 754 5TH AVENUE – NEW YORK
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Denise Gerassi foi honrada com o convite de um novo e fascinante parceiro para criar uma bolsa personalizada, a ser comercializada com exclusividade pela megastore do Hotel Rosewood da Cidade Matarazzo, em São Paulo.
A Cidade Matarazzo – “um lugar gerador de emoções” – é um verdadeiro oásis em São Paulo. O projeto, em perfeita harmonia entre o clássico (a restauração do antigo Hospital e Maternidade Matarazzo) e o moderno (as novas e instigantes edificações), é lindo e sofisticado! Abriga o elegante Hotel-Palácio ROSEWOOD SÃO PAULO, um incrível Centro Cultural, vários pontos de gastronomia e uma fashion megastore com marcas especiais e produtos exclusivos.
Com princípios e valores tão afinados, filosofia e conexão de ambas as partes envolvidas em qualidade, sofisticação, sustentabilidade e consciência ambiental – de acordo com Denise a sintonia foi imediata!
A principal matéria-prima – o couro do pirarucu – 100% nacional, cultivada e produzida com manuseio controlado e consciente, combinado ao design exclusivo da DG, deram match!
Desta forma, o objetivo da marca Denise Gerassi é criar e desenvolver coleções de bolsas e acessórios em couros e acabamentos nobres, com design sustentável e diferenciado. A curadoria da Cidade Matarazzo, com responsabilidade de atender aos desejos de consumo, felizmente, cada vez mais conscientes, encontrou ressonância na nossa proposta. Desenvolvemos a bolsa “Tainara”.
Essa verdadeira joia, produzida em couro de pirarucu e acabamento em metais nobres e alças de correntes, realmente, encantou!
“Rosewood é um parceiro e tanto, e nós nos orgulhamos desse encontro!”
#DeniseGerassi #ParceriaRosewood
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Brazilian fashion groups participate in fair in Paris in September.
The highly prestigious fashion and design event, WHO’S NEXT, which takes place in Paris from the 2nd to the 5th of September, features 6 brands from the projects FASHION LABEL BRASIL (ABEST- Brazilian Association of Fashion Designers), TEXBRASIL (ABIT- of Textile and Apparel Industry) and BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR (ABICALÇADOS- Brazilian Association of Footwear Industries), internationalization programs carried out through partnerships between APEXBRASIL (Brazilian Agency for the Promotion of Exports and Investments).
The FASHION LABEL BRASIL group is composed of the brands Lenny Niemeyer and Cecilia Prado, while the TEXBRASIL program group is composed of the companies Marie Mercié, Paola Bernardi and Rio de Sol. BRAZILIAN FOOTWEAR is made up of the Melissa brand.
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“Uma coleção que reflete sobre a importância da repetição e perseverança na busca da identidade”
Maria Frering inspira-se na vida e no trabalho da artista japonesa, Yayoi Kusama, a nova coleção Infinito contempla joias sobre uma nova ótica, com bordados intermeados de gemas e aplicações de pintura sobre o tecido.
Kusama repete incessantemente suas esferas como forma de obliteração. E acredito que quando uma forma é coberta por bolas e inserida em um ambiente coberto pelas mesmas, ela desaparece – é absorvida em algo que é atemporal.
“Minhas redes cresceram além de mim e além das telas que eu cobria com elas… Começaram a cobrir as paredes, o teto e, finalmente, todo o universo. Eu estava sempre no centro da obsessão, refletindo a paixão por acúmuloe repetição dentro de mim.” (Yayoi Kusama em Udo Kultermann, Yayoi Kusama, Nova York 2000, p. 103)
A coleção aborda as redes de bordados à mão já característicos de Maria Frering invadidas por gemas esféricas, enquanto polka dots aparecem perfurando o bronze de brincos, anéis e colares. O resultado faz alusão ao cosmo infinito de Kusama.
“Uma homenagem à incansável artista que dedicou, e segue dedicando, sua vida à busca da verdade através da arte.”
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“Innovate with purpose to create meaningful technology products and experiences”, WGSN.
New trends of behavior and consumption in the fashion universe.
During the pandemic, new consumer behavior promoted business opportunities for fashion companies, propelled the emergence of consumer trends.
Data and Insight
Technology is becoming increasingly important when it comes to consumer relationships. The advances in technology accelerated during the pandemic and research made byThink with Google revealed some insights: 88% of online shoppers research online before making a purchase; 3 out of 4 consumers in Brazil buy fashion and beauty products on online platforms.
“Technological innovations are powerful allies to attract customers. Digital makeup and augmented reality for fashion, for instance, are recent trends.”
Consumer Technology
“Innovate for the purpose of creating products and significative technological experiences,” WGSN.
Predicting new consumer technology tendencies enables the creation of products that will improve the lives of future consumers, foreseeing new lifestyles and guiding the design of new products.
Setting a price for fashion with science
Applying statistical approaches to pricing methods in fashion can lead to substantial improvements in product sales and margins.
Pricing is one of the most challenging areas for fashion apparel retailers due to the high SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) complexity, limited item comparability, and frequent flow of new collections.
Merchants prefer to rely on the intuitive sense of the price consumers would be willing to pay, competitive benchmarking, and margin contribution. Even though this is the age of big data and online pricing transparency, this reliance on subjective pricing still prevails in the marketplace.
Heuristic Model
“We recommend a model that allows merchants to enhance their business judgment and gut intuition with science”, McKinsey & Company.
The “heuristic” model uses internal and external metrics that incorporate relevant factors. The initiative applies statistical analysis to filter these factors and tailor metrics to each retailer’s business strategy.
Pricing factors: Domestic economics influence the retailer’s product margin target; competitive dynamics can drive the price to a higher level; on the other hand, brand value can push prices down.
The model presents two problematic indicators in apparel pricing: elasticity, relatively common in consumer sectors that rely on stable data points.
“Gauging the appropriate level of elasticity is critical, because this assessment is then used to guide overall price adjustments, to project new unit volume, and to quantify net revenue and profit impact”, McKinsey & Company.
Another innovative indicator: the perceived value of individual product attributes.
“By breaking down all possible attributes and understanding their perceived value, the pricing can be tailored appropriately. Although each of the indicators could be used individually to set a price for a style, we believe retailers should use a combination of relevant indicators, assigning a weight to each one, in order to arrive at a price recommendation. Depending on the retailer’s objectives, that recommendation could maximize product profitability or market share”, McKinsey & Company.
Stronger analytical capabilities and rethinking how to collect and structure the data relevant to each indicator are essential tools for implementing this approach. And understanding the retailer’s business and strategic pricing objectives determine the weight of each process indicator.
“Although this approach relies on the ‘science’ of external analytical tools, it remains rooted in the ‘art’ of merchant expertise and knowledge. Because it is based on strategic decisions for weighting indicators, it is a flexible model that can easily be updated to keep pace with changing business strategies. As long as fashions change with the seasons, there will always be an element of unpredictability in apparel pricing. Retailers have much to gain by harnessing the wealth of knowledge they have at their disposal and applying these innovations to their apparel pricing strategies”, McKinsey & Company.
AssociatesFlávia Aranha andMovin are certified bySistema B Brasil, which is the purpose of the brand’s impact and is at the heart of its business model; profits and growth provide a force for good: triple positive impact for your employees communities and the environment.
“A more inclusive, equitable, and regenerative economic system,” Sistema B Brasil.
“We are the first Brazilian fashion company to receive the B company certificate, the B Corp Certification, which recognizes and validates new organizational models that encourage the use of strong businesses to solve social and environmental problems, always in line with the concept of solidarity economy,” Movin.
Selo B companies balance purpose and profit in the following areas: Governance, Workers, Customers, Community and Environment.
“We have been certified by Sistema B since 2016. It is an initiative that is active in more than 50 countries, consolidating transparency in production processes and addressing socio-environmental impacts, equating them with profit in the priorities of a company’s management,” Flávia Aranha.
“More than three in five consumers say that environmental impact is an important factor in purchasing decisions,” McKinsey.
Conscious consumption and a more conscious future express the consumer’s social responsibility. Expanding circular business models, strategies to reduce waste and more efficient use of resources, promote positive environmental impact in the fashion industry. “The less impact on the planet, the more benefits there will be for businesses, people and the environment.”Read more about the importance of supplies in the circular economy…
Associates Vert and Osklen found an adequate reuse for their inputs. The initiative reassesses the work processes and the entire productive chain to evaluate current transformations and consumption demands.
“We do not believe in a romantic view of ecology. Our path is economic recovery. At VERT, this involves social work: rubber tappers and cotton producers receive a differentiated value for preserving forests and rural lands,” Vert.
“Pirarucu is one of the largest freshwater fish on the planet. Native to the Amazon, it is an important part of its ecosystem, in addition to being a source of income for riverside communities that live off non-predatory fishing. Our productive process protects the species, balances the region’s food source and economy, and contributes to the preservation of the Amazon rainforest,” Osklen.
The brand from Ceará,Catarina Mina, expresses transparency, awareness and collaboration.
“Transparent fashion, focused on the people who are responsible for the production process; the idea of a different kind of fashion has always enticed us – a fashion that inquires more than answers.”
The associate presents the Olê Reindeiras project in partnership with Catarina Mina and QAIR Brasil, to train and honor its collaborators, the lace artisans of Ceará.
“We believe in a different kind of fashion, fashion that is focused on the people who are responsible for the production process, and focuses its efforts on questioning, reassessing, reflecting and making decisions considering the collective. A fashion that sustains itself in a collaborative future. “
The creative alchimistSilvia Furmanovich portrays cultural richness and diversity creations with crafts, nature, ancient traditions, and unusual material.
“I have always collaborated with artists and artisans to new things. In this technological world, everything is being made by machines and we must all fight to keep traditional handicrafts alive,” Silvia Furmanovich.
The associate’s timeless art and design features unique alchemy, mined objects, traditional, natural and precious materials and techniques.
Sy&Vie, colorful and a with a touch of Brazilian soul.
“For us, each bag is like a sculpture. We cut, sculpt, and model each one by hand. We carefully think about each detail. We idealize each design, each sensation, and we create small works of art that contain powerful stories.”
The brand’s creative process transcends details and incorporates traditional marquetry, carving and assemblage techniques.
“My goal has always been to bring together my two greatest inspirations: nature and ancient artisanal methods of production,” Sylvie Quartara.
The artist looks for new materials and expresses sustainability in the use of certified wood, certified and sustainable leather, traceability in the production process, and the sustainable 3D printing technique on recyclable PETG for zero material loss.
“Artisanally produced. Artisanally conceived.”
Paola Vilas, innovative aesthetics and sculptures.
AssociatePaola Vilas represents modernist references and feminine forms in the creation of wearable sculptures.
“I chose jewelry as a way to express my view on contemporary issues such as feminism, but always from a provocative and sculptural aesthetic perspective,” Paola Vilas.
And last year,Paola Vilas promoted the unfolding of the brand’s conceptual universe and visual language in the new Home line: “sculptural pieces that celebrate the feminine and act as portals to a world where there are no limits between imagination and matter.”
“Bringing furniture to life, subverting the way we perceive our surroundings. Taking us out of the monotony of daily experience, subverting the way we perceive our surroundings and transporting us to a universe where anything is possible.”
Mariah Rovery, a pioneer in flower and fruit vitrification, promotes the blending of rough stones and jewelry classics in 100% reused gold.
“We are very concerned about the environment, and we are aware of the effects of our presence in nature. To reduce this impact, we took the initiative to exchange metals with the help of our customers and admirers.”
Creativity, Self-Expression, Colors, and Fun.
The brand presentsFlex, expressing personality, ideas and essence through malleable, 100% recyclable, handcrafted, national and carbon friendly accessories.
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The theme for Fashion Revolution Week 2022 is MONEY FASHION POWER. Inspired by the archival fanzine of the same name, this theme builds on the knowledge that the mainstream fashion industry relies upon the exploitation of labour and natural resources. Wealth and power are concentrated in the hands of a few, and growth and profit are rewarded above all else. Big brands and retailers produce too much too fast, and manipulate us into a toxic cycle of overconsumption. Meanwhile, the majority of people that make our clothes are not paid enough to meet their basic needs, and already feel the impacts of the climate crisis – which the fashion industry fuels.
“As we enter our 9th year, we will go back to our core, exposing the profound inequities and social and environmental abuses in the fashion supply chains. From the uneven distribution of profits, to overproduced, easily discarded fashion, to the imbalances of power that negate inclusion. On the other hand, inspiring new designers, thinkers and professionals all over the world are challenging the system with solutions and alternative models. Fashion Revolution Week is all of this, scrutinising and celebrating fashion, globally and locally, wherever you are.” – Orsola de Castro, Co-founder and Global Creative Director, Fashion Revolution
This year, Fashion Revolution is calling on global citizens to rise up together for a regenerative, restorative and revolutionary new fashion system. Throughout Fashion Revolution Week, the groundwork will be laid down for new laws on living wages for the people that make our clothes, brands will be encouraged to shift their focus away from endless growth, and consumers will be inspired to scrutinise the real value of what we buy.
To get involved, Fashion Revolution will provide the tools for people to write to their local policy maker about these issues, demand greater transparency in the fashion supply chain, support trailblazing small businesses and create their own fashion love stories to reconnect with the clothes they wear every day.
3 QUESTIONS TO ASK DURING FASHION REVOLUTION WEEK
1. #WhoMadeMyClothes
Does the person who made your clothes deserve a living wage?
2. #LovedClothesLast
How much did you pay for *insert favourite clothing item here*? And how much is it worth to you?
3. #WhatsInMyClothes
What would the world look like if brands restored systems instead of depleting them?
HOW TO GET INVOLVED IN FASHION REVOLUTION WEEK
Whether you’re a student, designer, producer, retailer, educator, union member or citizen, download a free digital Get Involved Guide to take action during Fashion Revolution Week.
NOTES TO EDITORS
The full schedule of global events and activations will be announced shortly at fashionrevolution.org and fashionopenstudio.com. Download images and campaign materials for press here and credit where appropriate. For further information and interview requests, please contact press@fashionrevolution.org.
About Fashion Revolution
Fashion Revolution campaigns for a clean, safe, fair, transparent and accountable fashion system through research, education and advocacy. Fashion Revolution is a global movement across 92 countries with a collective vision for a fashion industry that conserves and restores the environment and values people over growth and profit.
About Fashion Open Studio
Fashion Open Studio is a showcasing platform designed to shine a spotlight on best practice and innovation led by international fashion and textile designers, biotech start-ups and retail disruptors. The designers are selected for their commitment to a clearly defined criteria of responsibility, sustainability and circularity. During Fashion Revolution Week, designers share their products and processes in a radically transparent and accessible way.
“Luxury brands are evolving, more than 75% of the top 50 global luxury players are now using eco-friendly materials, while 75% are looking to reduce packaging, use more renewable energy and reduce carbon emissions”, WGSN.
In recent years the environmental, social, and governance (ESG) aspects of business have received increasing attention and companies have been pressured by legal, regulatory, consumer, and employee measures to use their values and culture to drive an ESG agenda.
“While it is tempting to view these three ideas separately and seek clear definitions, in reality these concepts often work together, with social issues at the center of the agenda. For example, is health and safety a governance concern because a company is required to meet certain obligations? Is it an environmental issue because an unsafe environment is likely to translate directly into a poor health and safety record? Or is it actually a social issue, since companies have an overall role that is to ensure employees, customers, and society at large are not harmed by their operations?” Drapers.
Companies promote their success, but in doing so, they must consider the interests, views, and concerns of all the parties involved – employees, suppliers, customers, shareholders, and the wider community at large.
The fashion world seems to feature prominently in one área of ESG: diversity and inclusion.
“For example, the FT Diversity Leaders survey that evaluated the views of over 100,000 employees regarding their employers´efforts to promote various aspects of diversity, including gender, openness to all forms of sexual orientation, race and ethnicity, disability and age, found that the top two employers of 850 that were surveyed were Hermès and Giorgio Armani. The consumer-oriented companies outperformed professional services and the financial sector´s companies. Also, out of the top 100 employers, seven were fashion brands,” Drapers.
The industry has also excelled in encouraging certain groups to thrive. However, the success of women and the LGBT Community in fashion can disguise a challenging journey for ethnic groups, older workers, those with disabilities, and people from socially disadvantaged backgrounds.
Yes, the fashion world is measuring, controlling, and proposing change but the challenges of employee activism, stakeholder’s voices, complex supply chains, and consumer opinion demand continued vigilance and a constant deepening of self-reflection. Creative thinking about how the industry can continue to move forward will be an essential driving force toward positive social change.
Coletivix and Nordetesse, Brazil develops projects based on SDGs and conscious consumption
Coletivix promotes the philosophy of awareness and social, environmental, and economic responsibility in the curation of brands, through the study of the 17 SDGs and the framework of conscious production and consumption. The flagship of the platform are the brands Laura Cangussu, PIU.BRAND, SÄL, and Tropicalina. Read more…
IMAGEM 2
Nordestesse is a “creative hub that registers, expands, and encourages the production, discussions, and talent of brands and services of entrepreneurs from the northeast region of the country.”
The collaborative platform Nordestesse promotes northeastern traditions and identity by curating products and experiences from the nine states that comprise the region. Brands such as Depredro, Catarina Mina, AM Brazil, and SAU are a part of this curatorship. Read more about the Nordestesse platform…
“Our production network is made up of seamstresses, embroiderers, lacemakers, and crocheters from the hinterlands and coast of the Rio Grande do Norte state, who apply ancestral knowledge and skills from their communities in handmade fashion items, generating social impact in the region and humanizing the processes of the production chain,” Marcus Figueiredo, creative director and CEO of the brand.
GALERIA
The slow fashion brand Depedro represents regionalism and praises the techniques of local communities: crochet, embroidery and traditional laces from the hinterlands.
“We believe in fashion that looks at peoples and their needs, considering that they have an impact on society. We prioritize the humanization of processes in our guidelines and we hope that these Practices reverberate in the world, transforming realities,” Marcus Figueiredo.
The major international movements of the fashion industry
“Changing fashion is not difficult. It is as simple as changing the way that we shop. Keeping clothes that already exist by passing from person to person. Keeping the stories, the culture, the value, the designs, in motion for as long as possible.” – Depop, fashion for a better future.
Depop, a popular website for selling second-hand and original clothing from emerging designers, promotes a global channel of connection in culture, design, and creative communities around the world.
The platform, a wholly owned subsidiary ofEtsy – the global marketplace for unique and creative products – presents three main actions of its intensive two-year plan for a new fashion system:
● Make Depop climate neutral by the end of 2021.“Because we are in a climate emergency and we want to do our part.”
● Systematic preference for circular or responsibly made fashion for all brand collaborations. “Because we want to make better fashion options the first choice for everyone. And working with brands with similar visions will help us do this faster.”
● Provide educational resources and mentorship opportunities to help entrepreneurs, creatives or small businesses from underrepresented groups grow their businesses sustainably. “Because it’s time to design a new fashion system. And we want it to reflect as many perspectives as possible.”
“Fashion is a global language – no matter where we are, our clothes always tell a story about who we are – and like language, fashion is constantly changing. It’s time to make this language more than it has been. To let go of what isn’t working and create something with more vibrance, more opportunities, more hope, more care–––something that reflects the way we want to value each other and our home.”
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