Sustainable handmade crochet brand Catarina Mina, which conveys the purpose of fashion focused on those who manufacture it and it’s sustained in a collaborative future – valuing people who think, create and sew the web and history of the Ceará (state located in the northeastern part of the country, on the Atlantic coast) brand – starts off its internationalization project.
In February the brand created a global Instagram account, and the expectation is to open an e-commerce store with a direct distribution point in Miami, facilitating the brand’s international export logistics and actions.
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Made by women, for women casual-elegant Wasabi fashion brand is an injection of energy to the active and dynamic personality of women in urban centers, and brings empowerment, creativity and female complicity.
The brand carries contemporary dresses, skirts and tailored pieces with smart and vibrant all over prints, spreading the power of the feminine and connecting people.
Recently featured by the biggest trend platform WGSN, Wasabi shows sustainability as a differential and a fundamental pillar of the brand as “it does good to wear”.
Since 2016, with the impact of the fashion industry on the environment, the brand has banned polyester from manufacturing, focusing on natural fibers: cotton, linen and silk. In addition, 80% of the viscose and acetates used are from reforestation wood, and almost all of them are purchased from suppliers with certificates, and 80% of the dyes and components used in the dyeing process are certified, biodegradable and water-soluble.
At each new collection Wasabi introduces a fine artist to work on prints and inspirations, with the idea of cultural appreciation in the creation of “artistic interventions”, in which case, clothing becomes the support of visual poetics. “Our culture is our heritage and we must celebrate it”.
Located in the Fashion Mall, Rio de Janeiro, the brand values local labor and economically strengthen its communities. The big news in 2021 is the opening of a new location in the Ipanema neighborhood for modern consumers looking for handcrafted pieces with design and natural fabrics as a way of expressing the feminine.
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Jewelry brand Prasi brings together classic jewelry techniques and the Brazilian cultural multiplicity native in the identity of the designers, Helena Sicupira and Mariana Prates.
The brand, inspired by the people who have pointed out the way to architecture and modern art in Brazil- creating timeless works- is expanding its reach.
Currently, Prasi sells through physical and virtual channels worldwide. In Brazil, the biggest seller point is online with its physical partner NK Store, in São Paulo.
Some international sales points include Brentwood Market on Goop, and Dover Street Market, in LA and London. As for its online partners, Goop, Threadstyling and Moda Operandi- that recently started a partnership after the brand’s attendance in a trunkshow.
In 2021, “we are very excited, as we will not only debut a new family on Mother’s Day, but we will also add new pieces throughout the year to families that are already iconic!”
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New member AM Brazil by Amanda Medrado creates handmade accessories with natural resources and sustainable raw materials, fomenting a creative context of art, regionalism and innovation.
The brand seeks inspiring projects, conveying emotion to all collections with the union of concepts, cultures and techniques.
Together with a group of artisans who work with carnauba (a native palm tree) straw in the interior of Ceará (state located in the northeastern of Brazil), the Paba project was born to create accessories with art, design and local raw material. Later on, the Paba Tremembé nucleus was created, uniting creators, new markets and the technique of the local artisan.
The project has the purpose of honoring manual labor value, generating productivity and income for women in small municipalities, and connecting the artisan’s technique to design, behavioral trends and consumption needs.
The brand, connected with innovation, the preservation of the environment and with the community expresses fun, creative and conscious design in the collections core, developing sophisticated products with elements and cultural identity.
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According to Vogue, Copenhagen, voted the greenest capital in Europe, one of the ten best places to live in the world, and home to one of the largest and most important fashion summits, announced a sustainability action plan during the fashion week, which encourages and evaluates brands to act in a more conscious and responsible manner.
“This moment serves to reaffirm what we believe: that fashion weeks need to take action to drive a sustainable transition within the fashion industry and not just be a platform to showcase collections,” Cecilie Thorsmark, CFW CEO.
CO2 emissions from a fashion week – compared to the manufacturing impact – are small. Approximately 70% of emissions are from upstream operations, such as production and processing of materials. While CFW is working to reduce its own emissions and plans to return to being a live event, its biggest influence will be in reducing negative impacts within the industry in general.
“CFW can play a vital role in setting a global agenda”, “its action plan encourages participating brands to become more sustainable in a relatively short period of time” say Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, founders of Baum und Pferdgarten.
The CFW 2023 action plan includes 17 minimum requirements that brands will have to meet to accelerate the sustainable transition – such as not destroying unsold clothing, having at least 50% certified, organic, recycled or reused textiles in all collections and to use only sustainable packaging.
The guidelines now also state that brands must offer equal opportunities and operate a safe, healthy and respectful work environment for all employees, free from harassment and discrimination. “We wanted to develop work guidelines that considered all aspects of the business value chain,” says Thorsmark. “You could get a high score, but neglect to consider an area such as working conditions – that’s what motivated us to add minimum standards.” “In our world, you have to look at sustainability holistically. I don’t think you can call yourself a sustainable brand if you’re not actively working throughout your entire value chain”.
For now, Copenhagen is an exception in the monthly fashion calendar with a minimum standard of sustainability for the participating brands, but CFW CEO expects other platforms to use work guidelines.
” If we want to have a real impact globally on the fashion industry, then it’s not just CFW that should be doing it”, said Thorsmark. “The industry is definitely receptive to change now”, “most brands have embarked on their sustainable journey”, “we need other fashion weeks and other major fashion platforms to continue with that work too”.
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Beachwear brand with authentic DNA Gapaz, displayed through exclusive all over prints, high quality fabrics and strategic cutouts in its pieces, develops a unique partnership with Atelier Customize, made by women, in the Lapa neighborhood in São Paulo.
The Atelier provides third party services for large-scale clothing manufacturing with a focus on handicrafts using various techniques of printing, dyeing and airbrushing.
With a 100% handmade process, Atelier Customize brings a distinctive work of dyeing and techniques to the Gapaz manufacturing pieces, with a unique and exclusive beachwear concept.
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The Dotz project is linked to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals as an ecosystem of alternative businesses based on 4 pillars: collaboration, cooperation, sustainability and economic management.
The brand works with agro ecological cotton produced in collaboration with small family farmers in Paraíba (a state in Brazil’s Northeast known for its tropical coastline and Portuguese colonial architecture), upcycling materials and vegan fabrics, promoting responsible production and conscious consumption.
Dotz is involved in the entire textile production chain, from cotton harvesting, ginning (separation of the seed and cotton fiber), spinning and weaving and, finally, shoe manufacturing. Each step of the production processes is done with different partnerships, making the chain viable.
The project aims to inspire another way of doing business, an alternative system that promotes a balance between quality, sustainability and society, establishing new standards for good commercial practices, which have a positive impact on society and the environment.
It all starts with an innovative artisanal production method from the origin of the raw materials to the way the shoes are manufactured. The process is based on the belief that collaboration drives innovation, and that sustainability and profitability can work side by side.
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Colab Cores do Oriente (Colors of the East), by Batiche + Caroline Kuchkarian, shows a mix and match of check pattern colors and it was inspired by a 3000 years old shawl seen on a visit to a museum with replicas of ancient synagogues, in Israel.
The beachwear brand Batiche designer, Natalie Basiches, was delighted with the shawl plaid and colors and developed an all over print for partnership with the beachwear brand, Caroline Kuchkarian.
The new collection showcases bikinis with recycled PET bottle mesh with UV 50+ sun protection, and the cover-ups fabrics are 100% cotton, bringing cheerful colors and a thousand combination possibilities.
Angelina Jolie was the British Vogue’s March 2021 cover, in Ana Khouri’s jewelry, Cristina Earring and Maia Ring.
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Last September, the first fashion week edition during the pandemic can be considered a fluke. The second edition is starting to look like the future.
With the vaccination program, consumers, workers and companies can make post-pandemic plans with a little more confidence, although they are not yet out of danger.
Fashion platforms Bof (Business of Fashion) and Vogue showed the trends for Fashion Week 2021. A forked calendar is taking shape, where those with prestige, marketing and production budgets show when and where they want, as niche and emerging designers come together in the fashion week itself.
At New York fashion week- reformulated as “The American Collections Calendar”- most brands showed collections between February 14th and 17th, with Jason Wu opening the week with a live catwalk following social distance protocols and Tom Ford ending the season. The New York Men’s Day took place on February 15th, with A. Potts, Ka Wa Key and Timo Weiland among the showcased brands.
In London (19th to 23rd February), despite having an interim schedule at the moment, British Fashion Council (BFC) has announced that it will showcase 95 fashion designers: 34 from women’s fashion, 22 from men’s fashion, 29 gender neutral and 10 accessory brands. The collections will be shown predominantly in virtual format, through the Official LFW Digital Hub online platform.
In Milan (February 23rd to March 1st), the season’s schedule is the following: 61 catwalks, 57 presentations and by appointment events (15 live and 42 digital), plus six other shows – totaling 124 events. And again, its digital platform will house other areas, such as a room dedicated to Italian students, in addition to virtual showrooms for buyers.
Finally, Paris fashion week is scheduled from March 1st to 9th, but its schedule is yet to be known.
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